Monte Santa Margherita

In the northwest of the large island of Sicily rises Monte Gallo, a mountain with several peaks. The highest peak is the Monte Santa Margherita with an impressive, west-facing rock wall. This rock wall is directly straightened to the open sea and crossed by great dihedrals, cracks and rough slabs.

santa margherita routes

The wall with the routes.

Already 35 years ago, the first climbing tours were opened here. Many of them were opened by Roby Manfré Scuderi. His classics and other tours are listed on www.sassbaloss.com.

For the new climbing routes were predominantly selected the edges and steeper passages. In this way you can clever avoid the distinctive growth of plants in the wall.

 


 

Access to the wall:

Starting point is Sferracavallo near Palermo. In the “Via Barcarello” (close to the bus stop “Barcarello”) diverges from the house number 63, a small road in the direction of the mountain. Now you can walk by foot, until it turns into a path at the last house. Follow this path and you see soon the first stone men. First you walk a short way uphill and after this you pass below a fence.

Then you cross to the right, pass under a rock foothill and walk slightly uphill to the right, along the stone men. Like that you can avoid the area with the ramified bushes until you reach the abscondence, in the middle between the access of the “Torre Silvia” and the “Il parardiso”. You walk up through the vertically stepped terrain and directly, on the left or the right side of the foot of wall, to the tours.

Duration: approximately 30 minutes

Descent:

Cross the grassy slope to the left (north) into a wind valley (big stone man). On indistinct climbing tracks you walk about 50 m down to the first small group of trees in the middle. Leave it to the bottom right and follow the stone men on the alternating stony and grassy path until you leave the tree and bush zone.
Over a stony lawn you walk down until you reach two transversed paths. Cross the first one and then follow the second one for some meters on the right side until you reach a small and well recognizable path which detours in the direction of the sea. This path is the direct way to a gravel walk and at the end you will reach the starting point on the coast side.

Duration: approximately 60 minutes

Map:

blue: access, start from the via Barcarello
orange: descent